Wave forecasting

Introduction

Prof. Gerd Masselink, Dr Tim Poate, and Dr Kit Stokes from the University of Plymouth Coastal Processes Research Group, together with Prof. Martin Attrill from the University of Plymouth Marine Institute are leading this SWEEP project that will improve the level of detail and accuracy possible when predicting coastal flooding and other hazards around our coastline.

The model analyses wave and water levels to predict coastal flooding risks up to five days in advance and with far greater accuracy than current systems can provide. Through strong relationships with our Partners who provide model input data (MetOffice), nearshore bathymetry, beach levels and real-time wave data (Plymouth Coastal Observatory), we aim to support the Environment Agency and local authorities to be better informed about storm impacts. Well-known incidents such as the Dawlish train line closure, and flooding in the Cornish villages of Boscastle and Coverack are just a few examples of where this information has the power to make a big difference.

The OWWL Model

The team have already launched the first version of their model, which has been named OWWL – Operational Wave and Water Level Model. Available live on the Channel Coastal Observatory website,  OWWL automatically generates daily outputs that give greater resolution to current wave and water height data available. OWWL also enables better predictions for locations all around the South West coast, even areas not currently measured by wave buoys. Each day, OWWL generates a three-day forecast and one-day hindcast, which plots data from the model against data from nearshore wave buoys and tide gauges.

Find out more about the OWWL Model at https://sweep.ac.uk/owwl/

A YouTube video explaining how the model works can be seen at https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=F9aNj19jhKE&feature=emb_logo

Click the icon below to link directly to the project page.